In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat 1 cup (125 grams) flour, sugar, yeast, and salt at low speed until combined.

In a medium saucepan, heat milk and ¼ cup (60 grams) water over medium heat until an instant-read thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Add warm milk mixture to flour mixture; beat at medium speed for 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add 2 cups (250 grams) flour, coconut oil, egg yolks, and 3 tablespoons (42 grams) butter; beat at medium-low speed just until combined. Scrape sides of bowl.

Switch to the dough hook attachment. Beat at medium-low speed until a soft, shiny, sticky dough forms, about 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining ¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too loose or overly sticky. (Be careful not to add too much flour; this dough is supposed to be quite soft and sticky.)

Scrape sides of bowl; gently pull up and fold sides of dough to form a rough ball. Turn folded side down; cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Spray 16 (3¼-inch) brioche molds with baking spray with flour (see Notes); place evenly spaced on a rimmed baking sheet.

In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat remaining 3 tablespoons (42 grams) butter on high in 10-second intervals until melted.

Punch down dough; cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface; divide into 16 portions (about 50 grams each). Shape each portion into a 5-inch log; loosely cover logs with sheets of plastic wrap.

Pat or roll 1 dough log into an 8×3-inch rectangle; brush rectangle with melted butter, leaving a ½-inch border on one long side. Starting with long side opposite border, roll up dough rectangle, jelly roll style; pinch seam to seal. (It’s OK if a bit of butter squishes out.) Place seam side down. Starting on one end of rolled dough, coil into a spiral shape; lightly press loose end into side to adhere, and gently place in 1 prepared mold. Repeat with remaining dough and melted butter, wiping and lightly flouring surface as needed. Cover shaped dough, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until nearly doubled in size, 20 to 30 minutes.

Bake until lightly golden, about 20 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through baking. Let cool in molds for 5 minutes. Remove from molds, and let cool completely on wire racks.

Using a small of set spatula, spread Sugary Browned Butter Topping on top of cooled ensaymadas. Garnish with cheese, if desired.