From Piemonte in the north to Liguria and Toscana, here are must-visit places, baked items to taste, and recipes to try at home.
By Brooke Bell, Enrica Monzani, and Giulia Scarpaleggia
Pride. Care. Passion.
These words best describe the baking and food culture in Italy. In each home kitchen, bakery, restaurant, market, and food shop we visited, there was pride, care, and passion. Pride of place and tradition, care of ingredients, and passion for process and making people happy through food.
For the first of many Italian baking issues to come, we intentionally started our travels in the northern part of the country in the Piemonte and worked our way down to Liguria and into Toscana and Lazio. In each of these regions, we leaned on local experts to share some of their favorites with us. Our baking journey in Italy has only just begun. As the composer Giuseppe Verdi said, “You may have the universe if I may have Italy.”
Piemonte
Surrounded on three sides by stately snow-capped Alps, the Piemonte (Piedmont) is the birthplace of the Slow Food movement and home to hazelnuts, white truffles, plin pasta, grissini, fabulous wines, and more. While it might be one of the lesser-known regions in Italy, once you discover its beauty and culinary riches, you’ll be back.
ALBA: HEARTBEAT OF THE LANGHE
The town of Alba is centrally located near many storied wine regions in the Piemonte region, most notably Barolo and Barbaresco. Wander the quaint streets past the Piazza Duomo and its bell tower, and it won’t take you long to notice this wine region is home to two other important ingredients: hazelnuts and truffles. Alba is the white truffle capital of the world, so you’ll find stores everywhere dedicated to selling truffles and truffle products, and you can expect freshly shaved truffles (both summer and white, depending on the season) on most menus.
HAZELNUT HEAVEN
As you travel through the rolling hills of the Piemonte, you’ll be astonished by the number of hazelnut farms. They are tucked between vineyards and ramble down from hilltop towns. Talk to locals, and you’ll discover that it’s not uncommon for winemakers to convert some of their land to hazelnuts. Why? Ferrero, which owns mega brands such as Nutella and Kinder, is based in Alba. And legend is true: early in the morning when the wind is blowing in a certain direction, the town of Alba smells like Nutella when hazelnuts are being processed into one of our favorite pantry staples. Pure bliss.
Aside from Nutella, you’ll find chocolate hazelnut spreads and hazelnut flour from artisan producers and hazelnut everything. Some of our favorites: gelato, baci di dama cookies, and bunet, a creamy Piemontese pudding.
Liguria
This stunning region hugs the Ligurian Sea, where colorful fishing villages dot the coastline and lemons droop from trees on terraced hillsides. We were captivated by the history and energy in Genoa (Genova) and enchanted by Camogli, Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Portofino. All along the way, we found a passion for Genoese pesto, focaccia, farinata, chifferi, and so much more.
MEET ENRICA OF A SMALL KITCHEN IN GENOA
Enrica Monzani, a former attorney turned passionate foodie, leads food tours as well as private cooking classes in her home and shares recipes on her blog, A Small Kitchen in Genoa. She was a 2016 finalist in the VI World Championship of Pesto al Mortaio, pesto made by hand with a mortar. Connect with her at asmallkitcheningenoa.com or @asmallkitcheningenoa on Instagram.
GENOA: A PORT CITY STEEPED IN HISTORY
The oldest historic center of Europe, Genoa is known for its large port, family-run shops, and irresistible basil pesto, to name a few. Discover local flavors by looking for old eateries called sciamadde, where, since medieval times, farinata (chickpea tart), castagnaccio (chestnut cake), and polpettone (green bean and potato casserole) have been baked in shallow copper pans until steaming. Of course, there is focaccia, too. Stop in a café, order a cappuccino, and mop your focaccia in the cappuccino—it’s the usual Genoese breakfast!
When in Liguria, you’ll also find endless variations of savory pies, torte di verdura, for which this region holds the record in Italy. Layers of puff pastry are filled with seasonal vegetables, fresh cheese, eggs, and aromatic herbs and spices. The queen is torta Pasqualina, which hides whole eggs inside and traditionally appears on tables during Easter. —Enrica Monzani
GENOESE FOCACCIA
This renowned flatbread has a crispy outside, moist inside, dimples, and an extra-virgin olive oil shine. Don’t miss focaccia with onions that are gently cooked to bring out their sweetness without caramelizing. —Enrica Monzani
BREAKFAST BRIOCHE
Plan to queue at Pasticceria Tagliafico for a chiffero, a beloved breakfast brioche. While these might resemble croissants, the similarities stop there. Here, the chifferi are softer and less flaky and are filled with a hint of apricot jam. After baking, they get a brush of simple syrup. —Enrica Monzani
📍 Via Galata, 31R Genoa
STUNNING CONFECTIONS
This jewel box of a confectionery store is a feast for the eyes and those with a sweet tooth. Pietro Romanengo is Italy’s oldest renowned confectioner, making sweet treats since 1780. Everything is made in small batches with the finest ingredients. Of note, you’ll want to try quaresimali (popular during Lent), marzipan candies, Rosolio Drops, and truly anything that calls to you.
📍 Via di Soziglia, 74/76R Genoa
FOCACCIA AL FORMAGGIO DI RECCO
You can’t leave Liguria without tasting a slice of focaccia al formaggio. The name is misleading because it’s not a flatbread or what you think of as focaccia. It’s an ancient pie that’s made of thin unleavened dough filled with a fresh local cheese that’s baked in a wood oven until creamy and melted. The capital of this gluttony is Recco, a small coastal village a few kilometers east of Genoa. But you can also taste the original at Revello in Camogli, one of the loveliest small fishing villages in Liguria. Look for the cheese’s label to be attached to the hot pie, a sign of authenticity. —Enrica Monzani
📍Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 183 Camogli
LIGURIAN STREET FOOD
Farinata, a humble chickpea tart dating back to Roman times that’s now considered street food, is baked until browned and crispy, cut while still hot, and served in squares. In Rapallo, at the family-owned Pizzeria U Fainottu Du Caruggiu, farinata has been coming out of their oven since 1984.
📍 Vico Fortunio Liceti, 7 Rapallo
PICTURESQUE PORTOFINO
If you’re looking for a moment to slow down along the Italian Riviera and take in the views, Portofino is a protected and picturesque harbor filled with open-air cafés and boutiques. The drive in along steep cliffs that crash into the sea is breathtaking. You can even hike to Portofino from Santa Margherita Ligure. Whether you drive or walk, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a long wine lunch of fried anchovies and trofie al pesto Genoese.
TOSCANA
Arguably the most iconic landscape in Italy, which has been inspiring artists for centuries, Toscana (Tuscany) is recognized for its towering cypress trees, hilltop towns, and rich color palette of gold and sienna. We discovered new bakeries in bustling Firenze (Florence), strolled the streets, eating gelato, and admired the magnificence around every corner. In Siena, we were charmed by the central piazza, duomo, and narrow streets twisting through this medieval town.
MEET GIULIA OF JULS’ KITCHEN
Giulia Scarpaleggia writes, teaches, and cooks in her family’s Tuscan farmhouse outside of Siena, where she lives with her photographer husband, Tommaso, and their daughter. Connect with her at julskitchen.com or @julskitchen on Instagram.
BREAKFAST AT BUONAMICI
Pasticceria Buonamici is a historic Florentine bakery in the heart of the Oltrarno neighborhood, which focuses on quality ingredients and artisanal, traditional production. The bakery was opened in 1949 by Bruno Buonamici, who learned the art of baking while working for the renowned Pasticceria Robiglio as a child. Buonamici is celebrated for its pistachio cantucci and incredible selection of Italian croissants and pastries. This is one of the best spots in town to enjoy an Italian breakfast. Grab a cappuccino and custard-filled cornetto, and enjoy it standing at the counter, the Italian way. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
📍Via dell’Orto, 27R Firenze
GELATO, ALWAYS!
Gelatao: The beloved Italian take on ice cream. To be considered true Italian gelato, the mixture must have 6% to 10% milk fat, 70% less air than other ice cream, and more flavoring. That means gelato is denser and richer than other frozen desserts.
Antonio Ciabattoni founded Gelateria La Sorbettiera in 2007 with his wife, Elisa, and the quality of his artisanal gelato shines through in every vibrant, seasonal taste, supported by high-quality ingredients and a profound attention to new trends. Here, you can find outstanding classics such as pistachio di Bronte or inventive creations, such as the lemon and sage sorbet or basil and lime gelato, inspired by Chef Jacque Genin. Enjoy a traditional waffle cone, fill a brioche with your favorite flavor, or have your gelato as a mattonella, which translates to “tile,” so think ice cream sandwich. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
📍Piazza Torquato Tasso, 11R Firenze
PANFORTE PARADISE
Bakers don’t want to miss Antica Drogheria Manganelli to stock up on all kinds of Tuscan goodies. As you walk in, take note of the canisters of spices, dried fruit, and nuts behind the counter. Here, simply tell the friendly team how much the panforte you plan to bake will weigh and if you prefer a light or dark spice blend. They will measure out the amount of spices, fruit, and nuts you need to make this Sienese specialty. You can also purchase beautifully wrapped panforte, vin santo, and much more. For Giulia’s Panforte recipe, visit bakefromscratch.com/panforte.
📍Via di Città 71/73 Siena
SIENESE SPECIALTIES
Locals love Panificio il Magnifico bakery for its pan co’ Santi, a raisin- and walnut-studded spiced bread typically made for All Saints’ Day, and its special Easter schiacciata, said to be one of the best in town. At Christmastime, pan co’ Santi is available fresh daily, along with a focaccia made from the same dough. The rest of the year, pan co’ Santi is available only on Fridays. Together with classic Sienese Christmas desserts, you’ll also find everyday breads, ciambelloni (doughnuts), cantucci cookies, and cakes like pinolata, panettone, and colombe. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
📍 Via dei Pellegrini, 27 Siena
Lazio
AND BECAUSE ALL ROADS LEAD TO ROMA . . .
. . . and points south, we ended our journey in Roma (Rome). Read about editor-in-chief Brian Hart Hoffman’s breakfast quest and first taste of maritozzo. And to tempt you with our next Italian baking issue, here’s a Neapolitan-style pizza recipe from author Katie Parla’s cookbook, Food of the Italian South.
