”This Pride flag-inspired Swiss roll is a friendly, colourful nod to my loving community but also a reminder of the career I chose. Training as a professional chef in the early 2000s was very tough. I was a 20-year-old gay man with a love for all things pastry, and it left me a very easy target. Back then, pastry chef roles were seen as a job for female chefs, and when I expressed interest, it was seen as a weakness. Opening myself up to daily jokes in an already challenging career was tough, but I knew I had to do it. I would work my shift in the main kitchen, and when everyone else would go home, I went straight over to the pastry section to help them clean down, with the hope of watching them plate up the final few desserts. I stuck to my guns, remained focused, and I finally was moved over to the sweet section. It was joyful, freeing, everything I had imagined, and more. Twenty years later, I am still head over heels in love with my career. It’s a gentle reminder to never let anyone stand between you and your dreams and to listen to your heart.” —Shane Smith
Pride Swiss Roll
Ingredients
Cake:
- 5 large eggs (250 grams), separated and room temperature
- ⅔ cup (134 grams) granulated sugar, divided
- 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
- 2 tablespoons (28 grams) heavy whipping cream, room temperature
- ½ cup (63 grams) all-purpose flour
- Assorted gel or paste food coloring
- Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Filling:
- 1 cup (240 grams) cold heavy whipping cream
- 1 teaspoon (7 grams) confectioners’ sugar
- 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line a 13x9-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
- For cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites on high speed until doubled in size, 3 to 4 minutes. With mixer at low speed, gradually add ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar. Increase mixer speed to medium-high, and beat until thick and glossy, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer egg white mixture to a medium bowl.
- Return mixer bowl and whisk attachment to stand mixer. Add egg yolks and remaining ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar; beat at high speed until thick and pale in color, 3 to 4 minutes. Gently fold in egg white mixture just until a few white streaks remain.
- In a small bowl, stir together melted butter and cream. Gently fold into batter just until combined. Sift flour onto batter; gently fold in just until no white streaks remain.
- Divide batter among 6 small bowls (about 83 grams each); tint batter with food coloring as desired. Transfer each color of batter to a separate pastry bag, and cut a ½-inch opening in each tip. Pipe each color of batter into prepared pan in a row.
- Bake until cake springs back when lightly pressed in center, 10 to 14 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes.
- Lightly dust confectioners’ sugar onto cake; top with a clean kitchen towel. Place a cutting board on towel, and carefully invert cake onto towel. Gently remove pan and parchment paper. Starting at one long side, roll up cake with towel into a log. Place, seam side down, on a wire rack, and let cool completely.
- For filling: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat cold cream, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla at medium speed until medium-stiff peaks form.
- Gently unroll cooled cake; spread whipped cream onto cake, leaving a ½-border on long side that is bottom seam. Gently reroll cake without towel, and place, seam side down, on a serving plate. Refrigerate until cake is chilled, about 1 hour, before serving. Best served same day. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 day.
